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Tag Archives: BWCC

  • Rigid Bike Forks 101


    Bikewagon - BWCC

    The front fork is an important component of your bicycle, as it connects your steering to the road. Because of this, the fork can have a big impact on riding performance and feel.

    These days, rigid front forks sometimes seem to be a dying breed. Many people who buy a new bike just want to know, "How good are the shocks?" and leave their purchase decisions at that. However, old-school rigid front forks are still a good option for some mountain bikes, and just about every road cyclist to be found uses a rigid fork.

    This article will go over some of the basic reasons why people would choose a rigid fork and explain some of the price and feature options among rigid forks on the market today.

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  • Drop/Road Handlebars: The Basics


    Bikewagon - BWCC

    Handlebars are one of the most important parts of the bicycle, as they are the part that interfaces with your hands and allows you to steer. They also provide a convenient location to mount brakes, shifters, and accessories such as cycling computers or front lights for riding at night.

    Road bikes are generally optimized for speed, which is why most use a drop handlebar (often called 'road bars'). We've all seen this style: the flat top bar that extends to either side of the bike, and then curls forward, down, and back toward the rider.

    Choosing the right drop bar is generally pretty straightforward; however, there are some important things you should know before you go ahead and make a purchase. This guide will go over some of those basic points, so you are prepared to make the right decision.

    Why a drop handlebar?

    Drop road handlebar

    Drop handlebars were developed to facilitate aerodynamic riding positions while also allowing for more relaxed positions if the rider desires them.

    On a typical drop handlebar, you can have your hands on the drop-portion (lower section) of the bar for maximum aerodynamic speed while maintaining minimal access to braking and shifting, on the top of the flat portion of the bar for maximum comfort and a more upright position, or on the brake hoods for a good balance between the two and the easiest access to braking and shifting.

    Classic racing-style road handlebars use a neutral geometry to allow a wide variety of comfortable riding styles. The variety of hand positions available make long rides more comfortable with drop handlebars, since the rider can move around. Drop handlebars also provide excellent leverage for sprinting and climbing hills when the rider is likely to stand up and hold on to the brake hoods to achieve maximum pushing power from the legs.

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  • How to true a bike wheel at home or on the trail


    Bikewagon - BWCC

    Do you feel a bit of wobbling in your bike, do your brakes rub at one spot on your wheel, or are you having trouble tracking straight while you ride? Your wheel may be out of true. This tutorial will explain the basic procedure to true a wheel yourself using a minimum of tools.


    What's required:

    • Spoked wheel
    • Spoke wrench to match your spokes
    • Your bike
    • Rag to clean wheel

    spoke wrench

    Step 1: Flip your bike upside down, and balance it on its handlebars and seat (use a soft surface like grass or carpet to avoid damaging your bike). This will give you easy access to the wheels. Give your wheel a quick wipe down with a damp rag to remove grease and dirt.

    Step 2: Sight along the wheel so you only see a thin slice of it. Begin to spin the wheel gently with your hand, and observe the wheel. Watch for side-to-side wobbling. If you see none, switch to the other wheel and repeat.

    Step 3: Make sure that the wheel is well-seated in the fork dropouts. This could be the cause of any wobbling, so release your quick releases or unscrew any bolts that hold your wheels in place. Make sure they are seated correctly, and re-tighten them.

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  • Compact vs. Standard Cranksets


    Bikewagon - BWCC

    Compact or standard? That is the question.

    The difference between these two types of road cranksets comes down to gearing. There are advantages and disadvantages to both along with obvious reasons why you should consider one or the other.

    The basics

    Standard cranks are often called racing cranksets because they offer the fastest common gearing (bigger chainrings are available but must be bought separately). Standard cranks have 53/39 gearing, meaning they have a 39-tooth small ring and a 53-tooth big ring. Ring is short for chainring, which is what the front gears are called that are bolted to the cranks. The bolt circle diameter (BCD) of standard cranksets is 130mm.

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    Compact cranks have a smaller BCD, 110mm, which allows for smaller chainrings. Compacts have a 50/34 gearing, so losing three teeth on the big ring and five teeth on the little ring compared to a standard. Compact cranksets are preferred for climbing races or for people who like to ride fast but not race. There are many people that race compacts, but for most people it's not the preferred crankset for flatter races or any with limited climbing.

    Combined with a wide-range rear cassette, like an 11-28, compact cranksets offer a wider range of gearing and -- as mentioned earlier -- are really designed to maximize one's efficiency to climb or travel at lower speeds. More recently, long-caged rear derailleurs have been more common in use with compact cranksets and 11-32 cassettes, such as SRAM's WiFLi system. This wide range of gearing means a wider range of comfortable speeds and decreases the gearing overlap (when different combinations of front gearing and rear gearing have the same gearing ratio such as a 50/25 and 34/17, both of which are 2:1 gear ratios).

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  • Bike Tires and Tubes 101


    Bikewagon - BWCC

    Tires are one of the most important parts of your bike, as they provide your contact for steering, stopping and accelerating. Good tires make life smooth and easy. Bad tires make for a bad day. Even the best tires wear out over time and need replacing, so whether your old set is falling apart or you are building a new bike, this guide will go over the different types of tires and tubes for different riding styles.

    Sizing

    Road bike tire

    The main rule of tire and tube sizing is this: the tire must match the wheel, and the tube must match the tire. If you don’t know the size of your wheels, check your current tire. There should be a series of numbers on the sidewall, for example "700 x 20c" or "26 x 4.8." These designate the size of the tires.

    There are two parts of tire size: width and diameter. Unfortunately, there are a bunch of tire standards. Some are measured in inches, some in millimeters. This can all be a bit confusing, but luckily more and more tires are marked with a standard: the ETRTO (European Tire and Rim Technical Organization) system, which consists of two numbers (for example, 20-622). The first number is the tire width, and the second number is the diameter of the bead (the part of the tire that seats into the rim to lock in place). If the second number matches on the tire and the wheel, it will almost always fit. In the ETRTO system, a 20-622 tire is equivalent to a standard 700 x 20c road tire.

    The outer diameter of your tires is not so important for fit, but it does influence traction and speed. Skinny tires are faster and bumpier, while wide tires give softer rides.

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  • Cycling Computers 101


    Bikewagon - BWCC

    Most of us had the experience of learning how to ride a bike at a young age and racing down the street at top speed, imaging how fast we were going. Well, for riders who want to gather speed and other information about their ride, a cycle computer (or cyclometer) is just the ticket. Cycling computers are small devices that normally mount on the handlebars of the bike and use various sensors to measure -- at the very least -- speed, trip distance, trip length and time. Some advanced cycling computers provide advanced features as well.

    This guide will explain the basic functionality of cycling computers, go over the features and price range on the market, and share some tips about how to use a cycle computer.

    Setting up the sensors

    Speed sensor

    Most cycling computers operate by means of a pair of sensors. The first sensor is a small, passive device that screws onto the spokes of your bike wheel. The second sensor is a slightly larger device, sometimes battery powered, which mounts onto the fork or rear stays of your bike.

    These sensors should be lined up, so that when you ride your bike, the sensor on the wheel rotates directly past the sensor on the frame. When programmed with the diameter of your wheel, this allows the cycling computer to calculate your speed based on the RPMs of the wheel.

    The cycle computer itself is a small device, usually rectangular, which mounts on the top of the handlebars and connects to the sensors most often via a wireless connection. A small liquid crystal display allows the cycle computer to display information at a glance. Cycling computers usually feature a single button that is used to toggle through the different functions, set clocks and set preference for imperial or metric measurements.

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  • BWCC Recap: New bike guides, new professor

    img_bwccIf you haven't taken a stroll through Bikewagon Community College lately, you may be surprised to see how much our selection of courses and labs has grown! We're adding multiple guides and tutorial every week. Here is a quick look at some of the most recent additions.

     

    Green cycling

    For Earth Day a few weeks back, we published a helpful tutorial by Max Wilbert on how to be as environmentally friendly as possible when riding a bike. This is really good stuff from Max, and -- trust me -- there is no hypocrisy in this guide. He walks the walk.

     

    How to care for your leather bike saddle

    Lots of riders love leather, and for good reason! After an initial break-in period, it's about as comfortable and durable as you can get. This tutorial from Max teaches you how to care for your leather saddle properly so it lasts for years.

     

    Cyclocross 101

    Our newest faculty member, Chad Rector, is a cyclocross racer, and you can tell he's passionate and knowledgeable about the sport in this informative overview of the sport. Yes, I know it's not fall ('cross season), but this guide will help you think ahead and be ready to try something new later this year.

     

    Cycling Shoes 101

    This guide is geared toward those new cyclists who wonder if cycling shoes are really necessary and how in the world they can cost so much. Max walks us through the differences between mountain and road shoes, cleat compatibility and the features that go into that price tag.

     

    Check these and our other helpful bike guides and tutorials out. And if you have any requests for other material you'd like to see, just leave a comment below.

    Google+

    If you haven't taken a stroll through Bikewagon Community College lately, you may be surprised to see how much our selection of courses and labs has grown! We">
  • Shedding some light on bike lights

    This time of the year, at least here in the northern hemisphere, the days are getting longer (hurrah!). So you may be asking why we would be writing about bike lights. You see, this time change (who's idea was this, anyway?) happens right when people in the snowy parts of the country are finally starting to thing about commuting to work by bike again. But suddenly, it's dark again at 7:30 a.m.! And that's one more reason to drive or take the bus.

    Well don't let the dark mornings be an excuse! All you'll need is a light or two or three, and you'll be sitting pretty.

    Since the sun is making it's way up, you probably don't need a ton of light on the path in front of you. Rather, the most important light you need is a safety light. Or even better, two or three safety lights. These affordable little bike lights make you visible to motorists and come in a variety of shapes and sizes.

    Taillights

    Bike headlight-taillight combo

    Probably the most important safety light you can get is a big, bright bike taillight. These usually mount to the seatpost and feature multiple modes (steady, flashing, alternating, etc.). There are tons of great options out there, and a decent light can be purchased for around $20.

    Headlights

    On the front of the bike, a nice little handlebar-mount bike headlight is perfect for early mornings. When it's still mostly dark, it can work as a headlight, lighting the path in front of you. Then, as it gets lighter, you can put it on flashing mode to make drivers notice. These are very affordable and go for months on one set of batteries.

    If you want to save yourself some time, just get a headlight-taillight combo.

    To top it off, throw one or two flashing safety lights -- picture a Knog light -- around the frame. When it comes to riding in limited light, you can never be too careful!


    Check out our bike lights guide over at Bikewagon Community College for more information on choosing the best lights for your situation!

  • Have you attended a class at BWCC lately?

    One of our goals here at Bikewagon is to create helpful, useful content that can give our customers a bike education. A bikucation, if you will. That's why we established Bikewagon Community College a year or so ago.

    bwcc-headWe had big plans, but it took us a while to get them moving. Well now we're happy to announce that those plans are being realized! Our selection of handy bike buying guides and bike tutorials is growing weekly.

    That means our expert faculty can teach you about all kinds of bike components and accessories, as well as how to ride and work on your bike! Cool, huh? Here are some highlights:

    If a topic you're interested in isn't there at the moment, check back regularly; we'll probably have something up soon.

    Our format continues to improve, and we'll keep adding new resources (video, anyone?), so make BWCC the place you visit to learn about bikes!

    We had big plans, but it took us a while to get them moving. Well now we">
  • How to patch a tube

    Bikewagon - BWCC

    If done correctly, patching can revive your tubes and save you tons of money!

    Tools you'll need for this job:

    • Bicycle Tube Patch Kit (includes: sand paper, glue and patches.)
    • Tire Levers
    • Pump

    Most punctures are small enough to be quickly patched without too much headache. After removing the tube, if you follow these steps, it will be simple!

    1. Find the hole. Pump up the tube to the point where it is fairly inflated. Move your hand around the tube feeling and listening for air leakage. If you can't feel the air with your hand, try bringing the tube close to your lips. This sounds weird, but your lips are very sensitive and can feel small amounts of air easier than your fingers. If you still can't find where the air is leaking, you can submerge the tube under water looking for bubbles. Don't forget to close the valve before you submerge!
    2. Rough up the tube. This is an important step! Use the sandpaper to rough up the rubber of the tube around the puncture. I like to scrape the tube in a few multiple directions to make sure that it is sufficiently scraped. It's not like sanding woo,d where you only go with the grain. Scrub it up pretty good! Also, make sure you scuff up a surface area that is quite a bit bigger than the size of the patch. If you try to stick the patch onto a spot that hasn't been roughed up, it won't adhere correctly.
    3. Apply glue. Apply a thin, even layer of glue. Apply it to an area that is bigger than the patch so that you get good adhesion on the entire patch. Let the glue dry completely! Many people try to stick the patch on when the glue is wet, but this in wrong! Let the glue dry completely. That is how it is designed and how it adheres best!
    4. Apply the patch. Usually patches will come in between a piece of foil and clear plastic. The side of the patch that is supposed to touch the tube is the smooth side, which is the foil side. I like to remove the foil but not the plastic piece. So, with the patch still stuck to the plastic, press it onto the tube with the puncture hole directly in the middle of the patch. Put the tube on a table or hard surface and push down to ensure that it adheres in the middle and around the edges of the patch. After 20 seconds of pushing, slowly peel back the plastic wrapper and inspect the patch. None of the edges should be peeling back around the whole patch.
    5. Check the patch. When you're all done patching -- and you think you did a good job -- do this last step before re-mounting the tube and tire. Pump up your tube a little and look, listen or feel if any air is escaping from around your patch.

    When you're satisfied, re-install the tube and tire.

    Trick of the Trade

    I like to put a little bit of air in the tube right before I put the patch on. I put just enough air in the tube so that it gives it about the same amount of shape that the tube would have when inflated inside your tire. By doing this, your patch won't be stretched out when it is pumped up to full pressure.






    by Nathan Moulton

    Nathan is the content manager at Bikewagon. He has written or edited product descriptions for thousands (probably tens of thousands!) of bike parts and accessories. Nathan joined the BWCC faculty in 2008.

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